Kate, Naomi & Paris
Celebrities, super models, alternative show spaces and innovative set design at catwalk shows are nothing new, but the S/S 23 season ramped up the hype to pre-pandemic levels and more.
The fashion internet lost its tiny mind when Kate Moss walked the Bottega Veneta show, Naomi Campbell was as fierce as ever in a white leather trench coat for Tods’ and Paris Hilton continued the Y2K obsession at Versace.
Other wow moments included Loewe‘s phygital fashion, Kylie Jenner wearing her ‘underwear as outerwear‘ at the Loewe show and Bella Hadid’s spray dress. We really hope Bella is having a lie-down now after appearing in almost every show, everywhere.
Julia, Bella & Kylie
- BALENCIAGA MUD
Ye at Balenciaga
From Ye opening the show, to models carrying fake babies across the mud-drenched runway, the Balenciaga collection was according to designer Demna “a metaphor for digging for truth and being down to earth.”
He stated in the show notes that he “decided to no longer explain my collections and verbalise my designs, but to express a state of mind. Fashion is a visual art and all we need is for it to be seen through someone’s eyes. Much like any creative outlet, fashion should not need an explainer to sell it: “You either like it, or not.”
Well that clears that up.
- VALENTINO
Valentino is literally everything right now, and who hasn’t dreamt of wearing one of their amazing gowns at an awards ceremony (oh just us then!). From the logo make-up, the pink front row (Christine Quinn was a genius move) to the it girl of the moment, Zendaya‘s sheer catsuit – this show worked on every level.
- ERYKAH BADU
Serving lewks at Valentino, Rick Owens, Off-White and Thom Browne, Erykah Badu was our favourite ‘frower‘ of the season.
- ALIEN CORE
Prada, Rick Owens & Fecal Matter
Gothic, Indie Sleaze, Grunge, whatever the #, there is no doubt that fashion is getting darker and weirder. From Prada‘s horror lashes, North West wearing a full face mask, Versace’s dark, gothic goddesses and Richard Quinn‘s funeral march, things are getting spooky – and not just because Halloween is coming up…
The dark prince of fashion Rick Owens has always blurred the lines between the grotesque and the beautiful, and this season his collection and his front row – Fecal Matter, Cher, Erykah Badu, and the Clermont twins – perfectly sum-up a mood that is both culturally and aesthetically pleasing for this present moment.
“The message is for Otherness. A departure from tasteful and perhaps narrow aesthetic conventions and an encouragement to consider open mindedness in other areas outside of personal appearance”.
- FALLING OVER IS THE NEW STANDING UP
Avavav
Remember when Naomi Campbell fell-off Vivienne Westwood‘s super-high platforms? In a recent video with British Vogue, the supermodel admitted to Westwood that other designers have since begged her to ‘fake a fall‘ in a bid to make their runways just as memorable.
Now, almost three decades later, every model in Avavav’s debut fashion show took a tumble. According to the brand’s creative director Beate Karlsson, the collection “played with fashion’s fixation of status. I wanted to do a parody of a fashion show”.
Wait what?
- SPRAY TAN
Bella Hadid at Coperni
In what seemed like a PR stunt, but actually debuted an innovative new material, the finale of the Coperni show at PFW saw Bella Hadid walk to the middle of the runway — wearing only a G-string, holding her breasts — as two men began to spray her body with what appeared to be white paint. After 15 minutes, the men finished spraying on the dress and a woman cut a slit and pulled down the sleeves to create an off-the-shoulder style. Using Fabrican (think silly string but better) and 3-D technology, the dress moved like a second skin, fitting her body seamlessly.
“It can be used to make innovative clothes that can be washed, re-worn and even integrated with diagnostic devices that can monitor the health of the wearer. The technology consists of short fibers bound together with polymers and bio polymers, and greener solvents that deliver the fabric in liquid form, then evaporate when the spray reaches a surface.”
In the 48 hours following the show, the media impact value of the moment was measured at $26.3 million, including $20.9 million on social media.
- TWINFLUENCERS
Gucci featured 68 sets of identical twins
Yes we called it, Twins are a thing, not least because our very own Fashion Editor, Jo is an identical twin. Our recent Twinfluencers report highlighted the duos that are making a statement on the runways and on social media.
Alessandro – you heard it here first.
- ICONS ONLY
Cher (with Carine Roitfeld & Michèle Lamy) at Rick Owens and Balmain
Who doesn’t love a bit of Cher – Balmain‘s creative director Olivier Rousteing obviously does – as the pop legend (and new face and elbow of Balmain’s new handbag) walked the show’s finale, wearing a silver spandex bodysuit, black platform boots and cheekbones that could cut a pattern all on their own.
She also made a second surprise appearance at Rick Owens, wearing a black & white plaid skirt with matching pants, black zip-up sweatshirt and leather fingerless gloves. To complete the rock ‘n’ roll-inspired look, she added chunky black platform shoes and an asymmetrical, velvet fedora hat with a large bow.
Never knowingly underdressed, we stan you Queen.
- KIM FOR D&G
KK & D&G
Are the Kardashian collaborations becoming increasingly problematic? First, we had Kourtney and Boohoo‘s “green” collection. And now, Kim, has teamed up with D&G, whose legacy of worrying behaviour ranges from casual homophobia to outright racism. But, the brand’s focus on celebrity collaborations such as Travis and Kourt’s D&G wedding, means they seem to have avoided the cancel culture that has destroyed other questionable brands.
Come on Kardashians and their people (Kris), pick your lane, because we prefer Balenciaga Kim to D&G Kim.
- THE PROBLEM WITH YE
North West, Ye & Selah Marley (Lauryn Hill’s daughter)
And while we are on the subject of Kim, how glad is she to be free of another big problem.
We have no words for the controversial Ye collection – but Raven Smith for Vogue has lots and we couldn’t agree more.
“One of the things I like most about him is his unpredictability, his unwillingness to conform. He has a characteristic wit—direct and astute—with an unmistakable mix of ignorance and exuberance. Watching him operate is both thrilling and anxiety inducing. He is both benign and dangerous, forgettable and powerful. Yet the trouble with West is the energy can be too intense, the provocation can tip, he can overstep the mark.”
