@heartzeena
If New York Fashion Week leaned into commercial polish, London focused on originality, diversity and fresh talent.
British Fashion Council’s new CEO, Laura Weir, set the tone in her first season at the helm, telling Vogue Business:
“This city has given rise to some of the world’s most original voices in fashion. I believe it is our collective duty as an industry and as a community to uphold London’s role as a global fashion capital. London offers a rare opportunity to make a statement with clarity and visibility, rather than risk being lost in the noise of a crowded calendar.”
Weir made her mark by scrapping show fees – a move that opened doors for emerging designers and widened the platform beyond the capital. The result was an influx of new, sometimes untested talent on the schedule. Yet, for all the fresh names and experimental energy, it was still the heavyweight houses that dominated headlines – often thanks to front rows packed with celebrities generating almost as much hype as the clothes themselves.
FRow @H&M
H&M’s part-runway, part-concert spectacle was presented as a showcase that acted as a “living magazine”. The star-studded cast of 70 models included Romeo Beckham, Sora Choi, Alex Consani, Paloma Elsesser, Amelia Gray, Iris Law and Lila Moss who brought the high street chain’s A/W 2025 collection to life. The final performance from singer and TikTok star Lola Young opened LFW with a bang, meanwhile Burberry closed the week at Kensington Palace Gardens – also with a music and festival-themed show – attracting major names such as Elton John, Naomi Campbell, Raye, Skepta, and Maya Jama.
Patsy and Eddie
Our personal favourite cameos of the whole week, came from Joanna Lumley and Jennifer Saunders (Patsy & Eddie) IYKYK.
- LONDON DOES IT BEST
Colour & layering from London street style
- MITHRIDATE
- Daniel W. Fletcher’s second season heading up Chinese label Mithridate was a clever mash-up of disparate reference points.
- Elongated Harrington Jackets reimagined as mini-dresses, cinched at the hips with belts
- Surface interest surfaces – embossed leather, sequins and embellished prints
- Commercial colour applications blended optimistic hues and subtle sparkle
- Sequined rugby shirts & preppy knits, created a juxtaposition of masculine/feminine vibes
- STATEMENT BLOOMS
Emilia Wickstead, Marques Almeida, Kent & Curwen, Erdem, Kent & Curwen, Marques Almeida
- Florals continue to dominate with small sprigs working alongside bigger bolder blooms
- Embroidered, jewelled and sequinned embellishment
- Pastel & cream grounds
- Floral co-ords & intarsia knits
- CIRCLE TIME
Burberry, Mithridate, Conner Ives, Mithridate, Denzil Patrick
- Sequins are updated using iridescent paillettes
- Sequins & crochet
- Irregular placements
- Double circles
- PROM QUEEN
Paul Costelloe, Simone Rocha, Richard Quinn, Paul Costelloe, Simone Rocha
- 50s inspired
- Pastel occasion wear
- Pretty florals
- Sequin & jewel embellishment
- Nipped in waist & big skirts
- TIME FOR BED
Yuhan Wang, Ashely Williams, Erdem, Ashely Williams, Erdem
- Lingerie inspired lace
- Pointelle jersey
- Delicate ditties
- Pyjama stripes
- Self jacquard satin
- Dressing gown shapes
- LIMEADE
Emilia Wickstead, Simone Rocha, Emilia Wickstead, Erdem
- Tapping into the Key Lime colour groups , Fresh Chartreuse (USP 165 / 14-0445) is a key colour for the season
USP S/S 26
- SLUDGECORE
Rory Docherty, Paolo Carzana
- Tapping into USP‘s A/W 26/27 trend Re-Purpose, print is blurred and smudged in earthy, neutral colourways
- Modern camp updates
- Abstract tie dyes
USP A/W 26/27
